Welcome to Mandawa, the undisputed heart of Rajasthan’s Shekhawati region. This charming town is often referred to as an “open-air art gallery,” and for a good reason. Its dusty lanes are lined with magnificent havelis (traditional mansions), each adorned with elaborate and vibrant frescoes. These architectural marvels were built by wealthy Marwari merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries, who used the stunning murals to showcase their prosperity and tell stories of their travels and beliefs. A visit to Mandawa isn’t just a trip; it’s a journey into a world where art and history are etched onto the very walls of the town. Let’s discover the seven most remarkable havelis and sites that make Mandawa a heritage lover’s paradise.
1. The Majestic Mandawa Fort (Castle Mandawa)
Dominating the town’s skyline is the formidable Mandawa Fort, founded in the 18th century. Unlike a ruin, this fort has been beautifully converted into a luxurious heritage hotel, making its history accessible to all. Its architecture is a fascinating blend of Rajput and Mughal styles.
As you explore its courtyards and rooms, you’ll find them adorned with stunning paintings, mirror work, and intricate carvings. The fort offers a panoramic view of the entire town and its painted havelis, serving as the perfect starting point for your artistic exploration.
2. Jhunjhunwala Haveli – The Golden Marvel
The Jhunjhunwala Haveli is one of the most sought-after sights in Mandawa, primarily for one spectacular reason: its stunning room painted with real gold leaf. This particular room, with its intricate golden artwork depicting mythological scenes, stands as an opulent testament to the incredible wealth of its former owners.
The rest of the haveli is also covered in beautiful frescoes, but the golden room remains its most treasured and photographed feature, showcasing the pinnacle of Marwari merchant prosperity.
3. Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli
The Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli is a favourite among tourists for the sheer variety of its artwork. The frescoes here cover a wide range of themes, from traditional religious motifs to depictions of the British Raj.
One of its most famous paintings shows the deity Indra riding his elephant, Airavata, while another wall might depict a British soldier. This haveli is a perfect example of how the local artists blended the spiritual with the contemporary, creating a rich visual narrative.
4. Murmuria Haveli – A Glimpse of the Modern
The Murmuria Haveli stands out for its unique and fascinating frescoes that depict modern themes and technologies of that era. It’s a clear indication of how the merchants of Mandawa were connected to the wider world.
Here, you can see a famous painting of a train at a railway crossing, a crow sitting on a telegraph wire, and even a depiction of Jawaharlal Nehru riding a horse and holding the Indian tricolour. These frescoes provide a captivating historical snapshot of a transitioning India.
5. Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli
Considered one of the finest and most artistically ambitious havelis in Mandawa, the Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli is renowned for its lavish and exceptionally preserved frescoes. The artwork here is particularly noteworthy for its detailed depiction of different aspects of life.
The haveli’s walls are adorned with scenes of transportation, technology, animals, and even some risqué images, which were unusually bold for their time. It is a masterpiece of Shekhawati art and a must-see for its artistic grandeur.
6. Binsidhar Newatia Haveli
The Binsidhar Newatia Haveli offers another intriguing look at how the modern world was making its way into the artistic consciousness of Shekhawati. This haveli is famous for its quirky and eye-catching frescoes.
Among the most interesting paintings are a depiction of a person using a telephone, a European woman in a chauffeur-driven car, and a fascinating portrayal of the Wright brothers’ first airplane. These artworks highlight the curiosity and global awareness of the Marwari traders.
7. A Walk Through the Town’s Bazaars
While the grand havelis are the main attractions, the true magic of Mandawa is discovered by simply wandering through its streets. The entire town is a canvas. Even the smaller homes, shopfronts, and archways are decorated with beautiful paintings.
A leisurely walk through the main bazaar and its connecting lanes reveals countless hidden artistic gems. This immersive experience is what truly earns Mandawa its title as an open-air art gallery, where every corner turned reveals another vibrant story from the past.
